Ask anyone who lives here when to come, and they will quietly say October — then ask you not to tell too many people.
The cruise ships stop by the second week. The cicadas slow. The sea is still warm from a whole summer of sun, warmer than in June, and you can swim at Ammoudi with the bay almost to yourself. The light turns long and gold in a way it simply does not in August.
What stays open
Eight of the sixteen restaurants in Imerovigli stay open through October, and the good ones are among them. Tables you could not get in July are suddenly yours on a walk-in. The wineries are between harvest and winter, relaxed and happy to talk.
Bring a light layer for the evenings — once the sun is down the caldera breeze has an edge. Otherwise, come, and keep it to yourself.